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Weight Pull Training
Agility -
Flyball -
Herding - Irondog -
Obedience -
Police Work/Protection/Ring/Schutzhund
Search & Rescue -
Temperament Testing
-
Therapy -
Tracking -
Weight
Pulling
By Mark Landers
Part 1
When I sat down to write
this article, I thought, "How do I take a fairly complicated subject like
taking a puppy or young dog and teaching someone to train it how to pull?"
Then I thought: simply go through the same simple steps that I go through
when I start a dog.
First, let me give some
background on how I got involved in weight pulling. My first experience with
any weight pulling at all was watching an ADBA Weight Pull here in Denver in
1984. I had been showing my dogs with some success, but more failure. Too
fat, too skinny, too squat, bad bite...the general thing you hear when you
have human judgment involved. Then I saw the weight pulling. I lift weights.
I feel better and look better when I lift, and I am a lot stronger now than
I was when I started. Obviously, a positive endeavor. Plus, a dog will
either pull the weight or not pull the weight, there are no differing
opinions or judgment calls.
My first mistake was
following the leaders, which meant baiting your dog. You see, most of the
people in Colorado at that time pulling their pits were baiting them. They
used hides, toys or whatever their dog would go after. Basically stimulating
their prey drive. This did not teach the dog to pull, but frustrated the dog
enough to do whatever he had to in order to get his object or prey! At that
time, I had a house dog named Max. He was a Jimmy Boots-bred dog that I had
taken through an obedience course. We both learned a lot. He was a very
smart dog. I was very surprised how easy it was to teach a dog something
with praise and reward.
Anyway, back to my
mistake. I had a little black bitch in my yard that was an in-bred Bad
Company dog. She was two times gamey and ten times nuts! She would do
anything to get at her toys (tire or hula hoop). So simple enough: put on
her harness, hookup some weight and let her "get" her toys. Oh boy! Success!
She won a few pulls. Took some trophies for percentage. I started great, but
there was one slight problem: when the weight on the cart got continuously
heavier and heavier, she couldn't pull it. No matter how she jumped, barked
or flat out struggled, she could not get her toys. She became frustrated!
That meant snapping at the air, the cart boys, the judges and finally me. I
had not taught this dog to pull, I had teased its natural prey drive.
Dogs in the wild learn by
many things. But food is a great thing combined with praise and repetition.
Anyhow, at that time, I had no idea what I'm telling you now. I have since
gone one to produce several good pulling dogs and three IWPA International
Weight Pulling medalists. The above-mentioned organization is an all-breed,
pure-bred or otherwise, weight pulling organization. It is primarily based
in the West and Northwest United States. It also has branches throughout the
continental U.S. and Canada. It has six different weight classes: 35 lb. &
under, 35-60 lb., 60-80 lb., 80-100 lb., 100-120 lb. and 120 lb. and above.
You will see everything from little Jack Russell Terriers to 140 lb. St.
Bernards. The type of cart used is a wheeled contraption that can be
converted to a sled for winter (snow) pulls. The rules for the IWPA are
simple: the dogs must pull the wheeled cart or snow sled 16 feet in 60
seconds or less, no fouls. Handlers must stand behind the carts first wheel
or behind the finish line.
At the time I started
pulling, Colorado had very few ADBA pulls every year. So, I was real
interested in getting involved with the all-breed pulling. Plus, in this
area, there are several every year. But there was one problem: no baiting.
At this time, I started a training program that has proven to be very
successful. I used what I have learned in my basic obedience classes to
teach myself how to train my dogs to pull weight on command.
Let me start out with a
few key points. First and foremost, you as the teacher, must be patient and
reassuring to your pupil. The dog you are working with may be a natural. He
or she might pull like a Mac Truck. But, chances are, if you ask too much
too soon, you will confuse the animal and frustrate yourself. Secondly, a
dog that won't even walk on a leash or come to you when called needs some
basic obedience work. There are scores of books and plenty of reputable
obedience classes in your area. Check the yellow pages.
There are several
different conditioning methods to get a dog in shape for pulling. The method
I primarily use was taught to me by a good friend of mine, Edgar Eddington,
from Tulsa. To put it simply, we call it "Drag Weighting". This consists of
going on 1/2 to 2 mile walks with your dog dragging weights behind it. Now
let me say in the beginning, you need to do everything step-by-step in
increments. For example, I have a 60 lb. bitch that can drag 8090 lbs. for 2
miles on a warm day. Obviously, I had to slowly build her up to this. She is
also undefeated in the IWPA pulls as a result!
Let's go over the basic
equipment needs. You will need a proper-fitting harness, a collar, a lead
(6' and 16') and a whole bunch of patience! For the dragging weight, you can
use a tire with rocks in it. But the ideal thing is window weights attached
to a tow chain. Window weights are foot-long, torpedo-shaped weights that
range from 3 lbs. up to 15 lbs. Therefore, making the incremental increases
easily. They have an open end where you can attach a hook to the weight and
then attach the weights to the chain. Because of their oblong shape, they
don't get caught in shrubs or bogged down in sand. You should be able to
find these weights at most junkyards. They are actually the old counter
weights used in window frames of older homes.
The first thing you need
to do is introduce your puppy or dog to the harness. That's right, I did say
puppy. You are going to gradually build your pup up to pulling heavy
weights. Don't start heavy! Besides, you are trying to teach your dog to
pull, not force it. If your puppy has no ailments and is healthy, there is
no reason not to introduce it to the harness and light dragging. Start out
by putting the dog in the harness for short periods of time, say 15-30
minutes. Play with the dog while he is in the harness. Make him feel that
pulling time is fun time. Walk him at your side, back and forth across your
yard. At the end of certain distances, 20-30 feet, stop and praise your dog.
Do this several times for about a week.
Then take the dog on a 1-2
mile walk. Let him wander a little, then call him back to you. Again, praise
him. Now, before you start to continue your walk, pat your leg and introduce
a word; say "work" or "pull" or "peanut butter". It doesn't matter what word
you use, this will be the word that you want the dog to respond to. But
whatever word you use, stick with it! Don't change commands, it will only
confuse the dog and be less likely to imprint in the dog's head. You are
going to use this word hundreds of times until it becomes second nature to
the dog.
As your dog moves forward with you, pat
your leg, repeating the command. Then, without stopping your walk, praise
the dog. Do this several times, stopping and starting. If you are in an area
where the leash must be on, that's fine. Just remember that each time you
stop, you start up again with your command. Remember, your dog is in a
harness, but no weight is being used. We are just getting him used to
starting and stopping with the harness on.
At the end of several
walks, say a week's worth, it's time to go back to the yard and put some
weight on. A good time to do this is at feeding time. I don't free-feed my
working pups. I use food to help the pup understand he's done something
good. This also insures solid imprinting. Simply act like you have all week.
Put the harness on and play for a little bit. Go out to your yard all the
time, being happy and positive. Everything should be done in small steps,
with the end goal being a weight pull team.
Have your light window
weight (or tire, or milk jug) at one end of your yard. It should be a very
little weight, 5-10 lbs. is plenty. There is a good chance that if your dog
has had fun during your last week of work, he'll run to you like there is
nothing on it! You do not want to scare him at this point. It is critical
you go easy the next month or so. Attach the weight to the harness, keeping
your dog at your side. Give your command and move forward slowly, at the
same time, patting your leg. Just the way you did the week prior. It is
normal for your pup to look behind him, or to speed up a little.
Reassure him and use your
command again. Walk your 20-30 feet. Stop, praise him and give him a piece
of food. If the pup does not move with the light weight on, put the leash on
the collar and give him a light tug saying, "Work, good boy, work!" Don't
get upset if the dog acts scared or tries to pull away. Just take it slow
and reassure him that everything is OK.
I must re-emphasize, this
is a key time in your pull dog training. You must do everything in a
systematic, step-by-step, slow process, always keeping your patience. If you
force your dog now, you might end up with a dog that will pull, but totally
out of fear. If your first week of no weight harness walking has gone well,
your dog will probably pull the light drag weight easily. Your natural
inclination will be to add more weight to "see what he can do" but:
When you come to the stop
(20-30 feet), give the dog a treat and verbal praise. The early training
treats encourage the behavior and imprint the command in the dog. Later, you
will be able to wean the pup or dog off treats with no problem. Again, do
this for a week or so at feeding time, never more than doubling the weight
you started with. Go slow, be patient, make it fun. At the end of your
training session, feed the dog his normal meal. You will be astounded how
quick the progress is. After the first week of back-and-forths, the light
drag weight should not be that noticeable to your pup.
Now it is the time to
start going on your walks again. I did not mention this earlier, but never
drag weight your dog on cement or pavement. Find a grass or dirt field. The
course I use is full of low hills and dips, which is great for conditioning.
On your walks, you should be using a very light weight. If you have doubled
your weight on your back-and-forths, go back down to your beginning weight
for your walks. You want to have to have your pup keep up with you. Don't go
more than a 1/2 mile your first few walks and make sure it's not too hot
out. You can also do your back-and-forths on your walk, always using your
command. You can also play a game of sit and stay: back away 20 feet, give
the command and give him a treat when he comes to you.
What we have done in the
past few weeks is two-fold: we started to teach our dogs to pull on command
and to condition them into pulling dogs. Build your dog up slowly on his
back-and-forths and his walks. Keep it fun! Don't be impatient or try too
much too soon. I like to drag weight every other day for out-of-shape dogs
or puppies. But experienced dogs in competition, I will work daily. Work
your dog consistently and you will have a champ! This is how I did it.
Part 2
Just to recap where we
left off, if you have kept your patience, you should be seeing some good
results with your back-and-forths and your drag weight walks. As I write
this article, I myself have been working several "new dogs" with good
results.
Before going into the
carting of your dog, let me talk a little about an important subject - good
socialization, as it relates to your pull dog training, with special
emphasis on your puppy or young dog. You need to be going to different
places to pull your dog. You see, the dog that has spent several months
pulling in his yard or turf with no distractions, looks great. But take him
in front of a hundred people and a bunch of strange dogs and you may think
all your hours of training have been a waste of time!
The key here is again,
small steps. Try going to your neighborhood park or school, somewhere that
has a natural surface (grass or dirt). Practice your back-and-forths. Make
sure there is not too much excitement at first. A park is good on a weekday,
when there is not much going on. At this time, you should be able to correct
any major problems that your dog might be having. Again, take it slow and
easy. Use lighter loads than you would in your yard. This will help build
your dog's confidence in the new environment. Keep your leash on the dog, or
at least in your hand!
One more thing that does
not relate to training, but might help you: people in public tend to be very
passionate about things, especially animals. If they have never seen a dog
weight pull, they may think you are "killing" your poor dog. These are the
same people who keep their dogs chained in the backyard except to feed them
and kick them out of the lawnmower's path, they do nothing with them.
Patience and communication is the key here! Just explain what you and your
dog are training for. You will probably still get some negative reactions,
but as long as you are not dragging your dog around by his neck, the person
with average intelligence will see that the dog is "doing something of its
own free will and having fun!"
One advantage I have here
in Colorado is that there are several novice and amateur pulls. You can make
these pulls more of a learning experience than a real competition. I also
have friends with cart systems set up. We take turns going back and forth to
each others house to pull.
CART TRAINING
- The first thing we should talk about is a cart!
Something as simple as a child's wagon might do. If you are serious and plan
a future in weight pulling, you need to invest in a decent cart or track
system. The cart I had made is 3' x 6', with rubber boat trailer tires. Each
axle is tested to 2,000 lbs., giving me an 8,000 lb. maximum load, which is
way more than any dog will ever pull on a rubber-tired cart. I went with
painted steel so it can take the weather, but good treated wood should work
fine. There are pull hooks on both ends, so it can pull in either direction.
I chose a wheeled cart over a rail system. I did this because there are more
IWPA pulls in Colorado than there are ADBA (IWPA pulls on wheels, ADBA pulls
on rails). Also, you don't need as much weight for a wheeled cart as you do
with a rail system.
WEIGHTS -
For weight on my cart, I use traction sand bags (the
kind you put in your trunk in the wintertime). They come in 50 lb. and 70
lb. bags and the bags themselves are made of a thick plastic and are pretty
durable. I would suggest you cover them or store them out of the weather.
I've had mine for 4 years now and only lose one periodically when a seam
breaks.
PULLING SURFACE - As far
as surfaces go, I like to pull on carpet. The house I just sold had an
unfinished basement, so I laid carpet over the cement and pulled on that. My
wife and I have recently bought a new place with 3 acres as to expand my
kennels. I now have no basement, so I've laid a strip of concrete in front
of my garage. I can pull 20' in my garage and another 20' out. The distance
you need to pull in competition is 16' but in training, I always have my
dogs pull the cart 20-30'. I have a piece of short shag carpet, 10' x 40',
and I just roll it out over the cement. I like the shag to be as short as
possible, even slippery. This teaches the dog to dig. If you go from short
to long shag at competition time, no big deal, the better for you! Going
from long to short shag could be disastrous!
If you are going to train
on carpet, I recommend you let your dog get the feel of the new surface. Let
him do his back-and-forths with drag weights on the carpet. I sometimes take
as much as a week to introduce a puppy to carpet. Remember, take everything
step-by-step. After several days of back-and-forths on carpet, it is time to
drop the drag weights and hook up the cart. You need to have another person
help you by holding the cart. The last thing you need now is to have the
cart smashing into your systematically-trained dog and scaring the bejesus
out of him! Make sure the cart handler is informed on what to do. A dog
capable of dragging 50 lbs. for a mile can fly with most unloaded carts.
We are not testing his
strength here, we are merely getting him familiar with the cart. I recommend
you put a leash on your dog and stand with him at your side. Give him his
command and walk forward. If he bolts or tries to turn around, just reassure
him by controlling him with the leash and giving a lot of praise. I also
treat him with a piece of food. If everything has been laid out properly in
your training, the cart should be no big problem. But go slow! I would not
try to have him pull the cart with you too far away. Keep him at your side
for several days, or at least until he stops looking behind him to see
what's there.
When the dog starts to
pull just by the command, take the leash off. Stay at his side and give him
a lot of praise. The cart pulls differently than the drag weights, so if
your dog's style appears to regress some, don't worry. By keeping the weight
light, he should pull the cart like a champ after a very short time. Go no
more than 10-15 pulls. The first few days always keep it fun! A lot of
praise and treats. Make sure he pulls the cart 20-30' each time. If he can
pull the cart in both directions, even better.
Your attachments to the
cart, your trailers, should be 2 1/2' to 3 1/2' long. I like to start my dog
at the end of the line. No slack. A good wheeled cart does not need a bounce
start. He should lean into the weight and use his strength to start it.
As far as weight
increments go, it all depends on how easy your dog pulls the empty cart. It
is still important to go easy with the weight. The first few weeks of cart
training, you can pull every day, 10-15 pulls, just letting your dog get the
feel of it. Once the dog is pulling the cart, a schedule of once or twice a
week is advisable. Increase weight in small increments. Say your dog pulls
the cart with great ease, add 140 lbs. and let him pull it twice. Read your
dog's effort - easy? hard? Go up like this 4-5 times. Make sure you know
your dog's personal best and don't exceed it by a wide margin. Let me stop
here and say, you should still be working your dog on his drag weights at
least 2-3 times a week. Drag at least 1/2 to 1 mile. Add weight not to
exceed over 25% of the dog's body weight.
Here is an example of a
cart workout:
50% of max - 4 times - 30
seconds between pulls
70% of max - 4 times - 60
seconds between pulls
80% of max - 4 times - 2
minutes between pulls
85-90% of max - 2 times -
2 to 3 minutes between pulls
Never pull a maximum load
more than every 3-4 weeks. A cool-down of 4-6 pulls, 50% of max can be used.
Make your dog's pull time
fun. Use your treats and praise. You can now start weaning him off treats by
giving one every other pull, every third pull, every fourth pull and so on.
Be patient and try not to get mad...your buddy will sense it! Have fun!
The former and this
article have been general. I've tried to explain the way I train my dogs. It
has been general, to say the least, but I hope informative.
You and your dog pulling
heavy weights as a team takes dedication and work. The public will look at
you and your bulldog in a positive way!
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